Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov have started their alpine-style ascent on 7,925m Gasherbrum IV. They aim to make the first ascent from the south side of the peak, by the unclimbed southeast ridge.
Before they started, the pair consulted with Denis Urubko regarding the changeable weather. They told Mountain Ru that they would ascend despite unstable weather and did not trust the region’s weather forecasts.
On August 18, on the first day of their ascent, they told Mountain Ru editor Anna Piunova that they had arrived at camp 1. They noted that the glacier was torn up.
On August 19, the duo had already made the middle of the icefield that would later lead to the southeast ridge. Federico Bernardi from Montagna Magica will help Golovchenko and Nilov through a friend, sending them detailed weather forecasts during the climb.
Golovchenko and Nilov reached the plateau on August 20. Photo: Google Earth
On August 20, Mountain Ru received another message from Golovchenko: “We climbed out onto the plateau. The icefall has changed a lot. The weather is normal.”
